Last week, we left Joe, the husband of the
woman in the green rabbit hat stranded fifty yards down a
mountainside in the Gros Ventre Wilderness. Buck, our head outfitter, tied a rope around a big tree
limb and plucked a second from one of the packhorses. He put the other rope
around his neck and under one arm.
He yelled for me to keep the horses
calm as he semi- rappelled down to his customer (after stopping to retrieve Joe’s
boot). Buck looped the extra rope under Joe’s arms, and then climbed back up. Buck’s
stock went up as I watched his calm and skillful descent and ascent.
He led the big roan I was riding
forward a few feet and dallied the rope around the horn. I pulled the rope
about chest high against a tree and he gently coaxed the roan forward. Joe was
unsteady as the horse pulled him to his feet.
Joe tried to keep his feet, but fell
several times on the way up. He suffered more from scratches when the rope
dragged him along the ground than he had from the fall. I watched the rope
steadily rub a trail through the tree trunk, hoping it would not fray and break.
Bruised-but-not-broken, Joe reluctantly
remounted less than an hour after his fall (with both boots on). He said he had
panicked as he stared down the deep slope, pulled a rein hard enough to cause
his horse to fall and dump him down the mountain.
At the main campsite, Buck kept his
promise and assigned me to a private tent several yards up the mountain and
close to the cook tent. I liked the location, but the tent sagged with the
weight of accumulated water.
When his two brothers and Patty, the
cook, did not arrive with food and the wood cook stove, he sent me back down a
different trail to see if they were in trouble. Alone in that pristine
wilderness, I was in cowboy and mountain heaven.
I found the stragglers and discovered
that they were behind schedule because the owner of the packhorses and mules
(an experienced rider) had been thrown. They had to take him back to the
trailhead to be treated for a sprained ankle.
It was well past dark when we rode into
camp, but Patty had steak and potatoes ready in less than two hours. We ate
together in the cook tent. The stove warmth felt good.
I learned that Phil was called Buck
because he had broken his back and both knees riding broncs (I had a great deal
more respect for his rapelling down a mountain when I heard this), his brother
Randy was called Rangey, and brother George was called Stanley (no reason was
given). They had children with names like Snow Ann, Wolf and Whiz.
And they took turns drinking. One
brother stayed sober each night in order to handle any emergency that might
arise while the others got roaring drunk.
The next morning, Buck awakened me well
before daylight to help wrangle the horses. My bedroll was cozy and the water
on top of my tent had turned to ice. I started to rethink my desire to be
treated as a member of the crew.
They tied bells on the horses each
night and turned them loose to forage for themselves because they could not
pack enough feed up the mountain. We managed to find them easily by listening
for the bells (every morning except one).
At sunrise, Buck pointed toward a herd
of elks in the distance, said he would be back during season with hunters. I
asked about hunting for bears and he said he could get away with shooting me
easier than he could a grizzly.
Unshaved and un-bathed after four days
of riding and camping, I was beginning to feel like Jeremiah Johnson. I was
sleeping like a baby in the wee hours when two mounted riders leading two
packhorses complete with banging pans rode by my tent and stopped at the cook
tent.
I rolled out of my bedroll in my
longhandles, pulled back the tent flap, and watched. A dying campfire by the
cook tent revealed Buck and Stanley asleep on bare ground with only a light
blanket for cover and their hats for pillows in freezing temps. It had been
their turn to drink the night before.
I had come to like and enjoy the
brothers, but one could never accuse them of proper cowboy etiquette or attire
like most ranch cowboys adhere to in Texas. Their hats were bent out of shape,
their boots worn over on the heels, their shirts and jeans torn. By starlight,
the two new arrivals looked like something out of a Gary Cooper western when
compared to the brothers.
Lights came on in the cook tent and
Patty shouted loud enough to wake us all that “The Old Hag” had finally
arrived. Much laughter as Patty hugged one of the riders and Rangey shook the
hand of the other.
When we gathered for breakfast, we all
knew Julie Hagen (the Old Hag) and her companion Jimmy before we took our first
bite. Both made the rounds and introduced themselves. Julie was a ranch manager
who had worked on ranches in Arizona, Colorado and Montana, and the Little
Jennie in Wyoming.
Jimmy was an outfitter who led safaris
in Wyoming, Montana, Alaska and Africa. Julie and Jimmy had been friends since
high school and possessed that kind of free spirit that most of us long for but
rarely achieve.
Jimmy and I were close to the same
size. As we rode together the next few days, I tried to buy his chaps, his
hunting knife, his pistol, even his boots. He wouldn’t sell a thing. They all
looked like something the first People might have used before Columbus
discovered America. I had never seen any like them, before or since.
Jimmy and Buck told me that Julie was
also a painter and poet, that her brother was an Olympic skier, her father a biologist,
her mother a professional flutist. Not your usual resume for a ranch manager or
horsepacker. I also learned that she had met famous photographer Jay Dusard in
college and that they had remained close friends.
One of his photos of her when she had
been ranch manager for Wagstaff Land and Cattle Co. had become famous and had
been included in his book, The North
American Cowboy: A Portrait. She was
definitely more than an old hag as can be seen from this.
The trip down the mountain on the final
day was not as pleasant as the one going up. It was warm and dusty; the horses
knew we were near the end and fought their bits, finally taking off with the
inexperienced riders, drowning us in a sea of dust.
We had started to sweat, so the dust formed
a dark cover on our faces. I held the big roan back and stayed with the
brothers. I glanced at Jimmy and Julie as
Buck and Rangey calmly watched the string of horses run full speed down the
mountain, their riders (their responsibility) hanging on for dear life. Jimmy and Julie seemed neither surprised nor
perturbed. They had apparently witnessed similar spectacles before.
Rangey pointed at the riders. “We did
these folks a lot of good in a short time. Not a single one fell off. Last week
at this time, we woulda lost at least three or four.”
Buck asked me if I still wanted my
money back as he reached for a billfold I knew was empty (“I never carry money
in the mountains. Ain’t no place to spend it.”) I laughed and said no. It had
not been the Magnificent Seven, but it still ranked as a great experience.
As we said goodbye at the trailhead, The
Old Hag told me where I could buy some of her greeting cards in Jackson.
When I walked into the lobby of the
little cabin court back in Jackson, I saw a reflection of a stranger in a full-length
mirror and briefly wondered who he was. The bearded, dust-covered man’s face
was about three shades darker than my own—he wore spurs and saddlebags were
slung casually over his shoulder. He appeared to have stepped out of a time
capsule from a century earlier. Then I
knew that, for a second or two, he was the man a certain boy had dreamed of
becoming long, long ago.
I dropped by the store Julie told me
about and bought some of her greeting cards and the framed photograph I later
learned had appeared not only in Dusard’s book but in American Cowboy, Cowboys and
Indians, and many other magazines. I
have seen it in publications many times since. The store promised to get it
signed before shipping to me. Julie signed it, “to Jim, till our trails cross
again”. It hangs in my office today.
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